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A round, scalloped Centella asiatica (gotu kola) leaf close up

Soothing & balance

Centella asiatica (cica, TECA)

INCI Centella Asiatica Extract · Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Also known as cica · gotu kola · tiger grass · Indian pennywort · TECA (titrated extract of Centella asiatica) · asiaticoside · madecassoside · asiatic acid · madecassic acid

Cica, the K-beauty calming herb, from a 53% cream base to the TECA minis.

Centella asiatica, known in K-beauty as cica, is a creeping herb whose leaves supply four signature compounds: asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. It is used for skin that looks and feels reactive and for the feel of a comfortable barrier. VVBETTER's Teca Lifting Moisture Cream replaces purified water with 53% Madagascar centella extract, and centella runs through nearly every VVBETTER formula.

What it is

Centella asiatica is a small creeping plant of the carrot family that grows in warm, wet places across tropical Asia, Africa and Madagascar. It has many common names: gotu kola in South Asia, Indian pennywort, and tiger grass, from the story that wounded tigers rolled in it. It has a long history in traditional Asian and African herbal practice, and Madagascar is today one of the main sources for cosmetic-grade centella.

The leaves contain a group of pentacyclic triterpenes, and four of them define centella in skincare: two glycosides, asiaticoside and madecassoside, and their acid forms, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Madecassoside is often the most abundant of the four in the leaf.

On a label you will see centella in three forms. 'Centella Asiatica Extract' or 'Leaf Extract' is the whole-plant extract, with the compounds in natural proportions. Individual compounds, such as Madecassoside or Asiaticoside, can be added on their own at defined amounts. TECA, short for titrated extract of Centella asiatica, is a standardized extract defined by fixed proportions of asiaticoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. 'Cica' is a marketing word, not an ingredient, so the list is what tells you which form you are getting.

Benefits for skin

  • Helps skin feel calm

    Centella is the K-beauty go-to for skin that looks red, feels reactive or has been through too much: harsh weather, active ingredients or a long day.

  • Supports a comfortable barrier

    Its triterpenes, especially madecassoside, are used to help skin hold water and feel more resilient, which is why centella sits so often beside ceramides and hyaluronic acid.

  • Hydration and a smoother look

    Centella-rich formulas help skin look plumper and smoother, particularly when centella replaces plain water as the base of a cream.

  • A good partner for actives

    It is a natural companion to exfoliating acids, vitamin C and retinoid alternatives, helping a routine stay comfortable while those ingredients work.

How it works

Research on centella and its triterpenes, mostly in cell and lab studies with some human studies, points to three useful actions for cosmetic skin care: calming activity in stressed skin cells, antioxidant activity, and support for the skin's structural proteins and water-holding. Madecassoside in particular has been reported to improve skin hydration in published studies.

In everyday terms, centella helps a formula feel kinder to the skin. A whole extract delivers the four compounds plus the plant's flavonoids and sugars; isolated compounds or TECA give a defined, consistent amount of the key molecules. Both approaches are valid, and many formulas, including several of VVBETTER's, combine a centella extract with one or more isolated compounds.

How to use it

Centella fits any step: cleanser, toner, pad, serum, cream, mask or sunscreen. Leave-on products such as creams, serums and masks give it the most time on the skin, while in cleansers it mainly helps keep the wash comfortable. It is suitable morning and evening, every day.

Layer from thinnest to thickest: toner or pad, serum, then cream, and finish with sunscreen in the morning. Because it is gentle, centella is a useful buffer on nights you use exfoliating acids, and a good choice for days when your skin feels stressed.

Pairings

Pairs well with

  • Madecassoside

    Adding the isolated compound to a centella extract gives a defined amount of centella's most-studied molecule.

  • Ceramide NP

    Centella supports the feel of calm skin while ceramides replenish barrier lipids; together they suit dry, sensitive skin.

  • Lactic acid (AHA)

    Gentle AHAs smooth texture, and centella helps keep the routine comfortable; VVBETTER's AHA Boosting Toner combines them.

  • Peptide complex

    Peptides target the look of firmness while centella keeps skin calm and hydrated, the idea behind the Teca line.

Use with care

  • Heavily fragranced formulas

    If you are choosing centella because your skin is reactive, fragrance and essential oils in the same routine may work against you. Check the full list.

Who it suits

Suits every skin type, and it is especially useful for sensitive, reactive, dry or dehydrated skin and for skin under stress from acids, retinoids or weather. Oily, breakout-prone skin benefits too, which is why centella is in VVBETTER's Green Line. Anyone with a known reaction to centella or many plant extracts should patch-test first.

Good to know

  • 'Cica' can mean very little

    A product can say cica on the front with only a trace of centella inside. Look for Centella Asiatica Extract high on the list, or for named compounds such as madecassoside or the TECA trio.

  • Plant extracts can still sensitize

    Reactions to centella are uncommon but reported, and centella products often contain other botanicals or fragrance. If your skin reacts easily, read the full list and patch-test on the jawline for two nights.

  • Quality varies

    Extract strength depends on the plant source and how it is extracted. Standardized forms (TECA or isolated compounds) are more consistent than unspecified extracts.

  • Calming is not medical care

    Centella supports skin that feels reactive, but persistent redness, rashes or broken skin need a doctor, not a cosmetic.

IN OUR FORMULAS

In VVBETTER

Where you will find it, how much the product record states, and what it works with in that formula.

Amount 53% (Madagascar centella extract, the base in place of purified water)

The base of the cream and the first ingredient on its label: the ingredient the Teca line is named for is the largest single component, not an afterthought.

Works with, in this formula

  • Peptide complexNine peptides, including palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, acetyl hexapeptide-8 and copper tripeptide-1, target the look of firmness while the centella base keeps the cream calming.
  • Niacinamide (vitamin B3)Niacinamide 2% (20,000 ppm) with adenosine helps skin look firmer and more even-toned.
  • Ceramide NPCeramide NP and hydrolyzed collagen help lock in the moisture that beta-glucan, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid and glycerin bring.

How to use it Morning and evening, after the Teca serum: a pea-sized scoop for face and neck, a little more on dry areas, then sunscreen in the morning.

View product

The centella that runs through the Teca line, as Centella Asiatica Extract with fig, kelp, eclipta and olive leaf extracts, in a light dropper serum.

Works with, in this formula

  • Peptide complexEight peptides do the 'lifting' half of the name; centella and the hydrators do the 'moisture' half.
  • Vitamin C and its glucosidePure vitamin C and ascorbyl glucoside with 2% niacinamide target dull, uneven-looking tone, with centella keeping the serum comfortable.
  • Hyaluronic acidTwo forms of hyaluronic acid, beta-glucan, ceramide NP and soluble collagen carry the hydration.

How to use it Place a drop on the forehead and each cheek (2–3 drops), press in after toner, then follow with the Teca cream. For extra calm, put 1–2 drops on a Jeju Yuja Balancing Pad and leave it on for 3–5 minutes.

View product

The kit's 10 ml Teca serum and 10 ml Teca cream are travel formulas of their own that list the three TECA compounds by name: asiatic acid, asiaticoside and madecassic acid. The 30 ml toner and 20 ml foam contain centella extract.

Works with, in this formula

  • Peptide complexThe mini serum carries 8 peptides and the mini cream 9, alongside the TECA compounds.
  • Niacinamide (vitamin B3)Both minis list niacinamide and adenosine for skin that looks firmer and more even-toned.

How to use it Use in order, morning and evening: foam, toner on a cotton pad, serum, cream; finish with sunscreen in the morning.

View product

A five-type CICA complex (asiaticoside, madecassic acid, asiatic acid, centella asiatica extract and madecassoside) for skin that feels tired or reactive.

Works with, in this formula

  • Marine-plant PDRN (vegan PDRN)The 2,000 ppm marine-plant PDRN complex and the rest of the plant rejuvenating complex address tired-looking skin while the CICA complex keeps it calm.
  • Hyaluronic acidThree types of hyaluronic acid with beta-glucan make up the hydrating essence.

How to use it 2–3 times a week, best in the evening, for 10–20 minutes after toner; pat in the leftover essence and seal with cream.

View product

Four centella compounds (madecassoside, asiaticoside, madecassic acid, asiatic acid) with houttuynia, thyme, rosemary, oregano and lavender extracts, for skin that feels reactive.

Works with, in this formula

  • Gluconolactone (PHA)The gentle PHA smooths texture while the centella compounds keep a daily acid pad comfortable for sensitive skin.
  • MOISTURE TM B0.5% MOISTURE TM B forms a light moisture film that adds to the calming effect when the pad is used as a 3–5 minute pack.

How to use it Wipe after cleansing morning and evening; when skin feels stressed, leave a pad on the cheeks for 3–5 minutes.

View product

The same four centella compounds as the full-size pad, in sealed travel pouches.

Works with, in this formula

How to use it One pouch, two pads: wipe with the first, use the second as a 3–5 minute pack.

View product

Centella asiatica extract, with green tea, propolis and chamomile extracts, keeps a daily acid toner comfortable for skin that feels reactive.

Works with, in this formula

  • Lactic acid (AHA)Lactic acid 0.45% and glycolic acid 0.07% at pH 5.5 smooth texture; centella helps the skin stay calm while they work.

How to use it Sweep over the face and neck with a cotton pad after cleansing; start every other day if acids are new to you.

View product

Centella (cica) and tea tree extracts for skin that feels reactive, in a pH 5.5 coconut-derived foam.

Works with, in this formula

How to use it Lather in wet palms, massage for 1–2 minutes and rinse with lukewarm water.

View product

Centella asiatica and wormwood extracts for skin that feels reactive, with madecassoside among the after-feel ingredients.

Works with, in this formula

  • MadecassosideMadecassoside, squalane, panthenol and ceramide NP help skin feel soft after rinsing, not tight.

How to use it Massage onto a dry face with dry hands, add warm water until it turns milky, rinse, then follow with a water-based cleanser.

View product

Centella asiatica extract, beta-glucan and hyaluronic acid keep a clay mask kind to skin that feels reactive or dry.

Works with, in this formula

  • Kaolin and bentonite claysKaolin 10.5% and bentonite 4% take up oil and buildup; centella and the hydrators stop skin feeling stripped.

How to use it On a dry face, avoid eyes and mouth; leave 10 minutes (dry or normal skin, once a week) or about 15 (oily skin, 1–2 times a week), then rinse.

View product

Centella asiatica extract with Jeju yuja, houttuynia and holy basil leaf extracts, botanicals for skin that feels reactive.

Works with, in this formula

  • Ceramide NPCeramide capsules (0.5%) support the barrier while centella helps the skin feel calm.

How to use it Last step before sunscreen, morning and evening.

View product

Centella asiatica extract among the botanicals (with Jeju yuja, zinc PCA and fig) of a cleanser for skin that gets oily and reactive.

Works with, in this formula

  • Salicylic acid (BHA)0.5% BHA and 0.62% AHA cleanse away excess oil and dead surface cells; centella helps the rinse feel comfortable.

How to use it 2–3 pumps into wet hands, massage for about 30 seconds, rinse.

View product

Centella in two places: as Centella Asiatica Extract, and as centella leaf, one of the seven plants of the patented ACZERO complex (1,000 ppm).

Works with, in this formula

  • ACZERO™ seven-plant complexCentella leaf works with green tea, willow bark, mozuku seaweed, coffee seed, bergamot leaf and pine leaf extracts to help skin look calmer.
  • Succinic acidSuccinic acid 2% and niacinamide 2% target oil and clarity; centella helps keep the serum gentle enough for sensitive skin.

How to use it 2–3 drops after toner or a pad, morning and night; sunscreen in the morning.

View product

Centella asiatica leaf extract plus two isolated centella compounds, madecassoside and asiaticoside, in a firming serum.

Works with, in this formula

  • BakuchiolBakuchiol 1% does the firming work; the centella trio helps keep the serum comfortable for daily use.

How to use it Shake, then 2–3 drops morning and evening, with sunscreen in the morning.

View product

Questions people ask

What is centella asiatica (cica) and what does it do for skin?

Centella asiatica is a creeping herb, also called gotu kola or tiger grass, and 'cica' is its K-beauty nickname. Its compounds asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid are used to help skin feel calm and to support the feel of a comfortable barrier. VVBETTER uses centella in nearly every formula, most notably as the 53% base of the Teca Lifting Moisture Cream.

What is the difference between TECA and cica?

TECA (titrated extract of Centella asiatica) is a standardized extract defined by fixed proportions of asiaticoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. 'Cica' is a general marketing word for anything centella-based, from a rich extract to a trace. Check the ingredient list: VVBETTER's Travel Kit Blue minis list the three TECA compounds by name, while the full-size Teca cream is built on 53% Centella Asiatica Extract.

Is centella good for sensitive or redness-prone skin?

Yes, that is what it is best known for: it helps skin that looks red or feels reactive feel calmer and more comfortable. It is gentle for most people, but reactions to plant extracts can happen, so patch-test first. Persistent redness or irritation is a reason to see a doctor.

Can I use centella with retinol, vitamin C or AHAs?

Yes, centella pairs well with all of them and is often used to keep active routines comfortable. VVBETTER's AHA Boosting Toner combines centella with lactic and glycolic acid, and the Teca serum pairs it with vitamin C and peptides. Introduce strong actives one at a time.

Does the Teca cream really use centella instead of water?

Yes. Teca Lifting Moisture Cream replaces purified water with 53% Centella asiatica extract from Madagascar, and centella extract is the first ingredient on the label. The base is the largest single part of any cream, so this puts the most centella where it matters.

Which VVBETTER products contain centella?

Centella is the base of the Teca Lifting Moisture Cream and is in the Teca serum, Travel Kit Blue, Rejuvenating Squalane Mask (five-type CICA complex) and Jeju Yuja Balancing Pad (four compounds). It also appears in the AHA Boosting Toner, 5.5 Soothing Cleansing Foam, Gentle Deep Cleansing Oil, Mud Mask, Cera Balancing Cream, Bubble Cleanser, Succinic Balancing Serum and Bakuchiol PDRN Serum.

References

  1. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology (2013): Centella asiatica in cosmetology
  2. Journal of Cellular and Molecular Medicine (2023): Asiaticoside and madecassoside, a review
  3. PubChem: Asiaticoside

Photo: Photo: Forest & Kim Starr, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

General cosmetic information, not medical advice. Amounts come from VVBETTER product records; where a record names an ingredient without an amount, none is shown. 1% is 10,000 ppm.