The short answer
No. The 72% on the Dark Spot Solution Vita C TRX Serum label is sea buckthorn fruit water, the base of the formula. It is not 72% vitamin C. The main active is tranexamic acid at 3% (30,000 ppm), and vitamin C appears only as a stable derivative, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, at 100 ppm. The serum is REGLOW, the brightening serum of VVBETTER's Solution Series.
What the 72% on the label actually refers to
A percentage on a skincare label only means something once you attach a name to it. Here the name is sea buckthorn fruit water. It replaces purified water as the base of the formula, so it makes up most of what is in the bottle, and the active ingredients are dissolved in it. The four names that define this serum are tranexamic acid, sea buckthorn water, niacinamide and MELAWAY™, and the numbers below belong to them.
One detail is worth knowing if you like reading ingredient lists. Purified water also appears on the list, in second place. That is why we write "72% sea buckthorn water in place of purified water as the base" and never "water-free". A botanical-water base is a choice about what the formula is built on. It does not mean there is no plain water anywhere in it.
How to convert percent and ppm
Labels switch between percent and ppm (parts per million), and the conversion is simple: 1% equals 10,000 ppm. So 72% is 720,000 ppm, 3% is 30,000 ppm, and 100 ppm is only 0.01%. The conversion is the easy part. The question that matters is "percent of what?", and the table below answers it for this serum.
| Ingredient | Amount | Role in the formula |
|---|---|---|
| Sea buckthorn fruit water | 72% (720,000 ppm) | Base, in place of purified water |
| Tranexamic acid | 3% (30,000 ppm) | Main active |
| Niacinamide | 2% (20,000 ppm) | MFDS-listed brightening ingredient |
| MELAWAY™ (patented ingredient) | 1% (10,000 ppm), counted as a complex raw material | Vitamin B and C complex from white water lily, lemon myrtle leaf and apple extracts |
| (-)-Alpha-bisabolol | 0.5% (5,000 ppm) | MFDS-listed brightening ingredient |
| Adenosine | 400 ppm | MFDS-listed ingredient in the wrinkle-improvement category |
| 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid | 100 ppm | Stable vitamin C derivative |
Notice the MELAWAY™ row. It is a patented vitamin B and C complex, and its 1% describes the supplied complex raw material, which is itself a blend of plant extracts, not 1% of a single molecule. We keep that wording attached to the number for the same reason we keep "fruit water" attached to the 72%.
So where is the vitamin C?
Pure vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) is a well-known brightening ingredient, but it is also known for being hard to keep stable. It tends to break down in water and discolor with light and air, and a higher dose is more likely to sting. Those trade-offs are the reason we built this serum on a different route.
The main active here is tranexamic acid at 3%. Alongside it sits a vitamin C derivative, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, at a small 100 ppm, together with glutathione and sea buckthorn fruit extract for tone. The product does not contain pure L-ascorbic acid. If you are choosing between serums, this is the practical difference between the three approaches.
| Pure vitamin C | Vitamin C derivative | Tranexamic acid (this serum's main active) | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Stability | Lower; sensitive to light, air and water | Generally higher | Generally high |
| Role in this formula | Not used | Tone support, 100 ppm | Main active, 30,000 ppm |
What a combined number can and cannot tell you
You may also see "dark-spot actives combined: 65,100 ppm" for this serum. That is a sum of five different ingredients: tranexamic acid 30,000, MELAWAY™ 10,000, niacinamide 20,000, alpha-bisabolol 5,000 and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid 100. A total like this is useful for seeing how much of the formula is devoted to the same concern. It does not say any single ingredient is present at that level, and it does not rank this serum above another one. Treat it as a map of the formula, not as a score.
The formula is a cosmetic, meant to help visibly brighten the look of dark spots, post-blemish marks and uneven tone. In the Solution Series shorthand, REGLOW stands for brightening, blemish care and tone refinement. It is registered with the Korean MFDS as a functional cosmetic in the brightening and wrinkle-improvement categories (notified July 2025). We do not claim it treats any skin condition, and individual results vary.
How to use it
- Cleanse and apply your toner, then use the serum. It goes after toner and before cream.
- Dispense 2–3 drops and spread them over the face, pressing in gently until absorbed. Shaking is not needed.
- On a spot that bothers you, add a second thin layer.
- Use it morning and night, then finish with a cream. In the morning, add sunscreen last.
- If your skin is sensitive, patch-test on the jawline for two nights first.
Two practical notes. A little white powder can form around the neck of the bottle. That is tranexamic acid at 3% meeting air; wipe it away and keep using the serum. And store it in a cool place away from direct sunlight and use it within 12 months of opening. It is made for daily use, but we do not recommend layering it with strong AHA or BHA products in the same routine. If you use several VVBETTER serums, the order is Succinic, Vita C TRX, then Bakuchiol PDRN, 2–3 drops each; very sensitive or thin skin should use one serum per routine.
How serum labels are usually written, and what to ask
Many product names lead with an ingredient family and a big number, and many descriptions say "high-strength" without saying what is strong. You can check any of them with four questions:
- Which ingredient does the number belong to? Look for a name next to every figure.
- Is it the finished formula or a raw material? "Complex" or "raw material" in the wording changes what the number means.
- Is the base named? A botanical water at 72% tells you what the formula is built on.
- Is the full ingredient list on the page, and does it agree with the front label?
Our guide Three questions to ask a percentage goes through the same habit in a shorter form that you can use on any product page. It is also how VVBETTER tries to work: mindful skincare with clean and thoughtful formulations, at least six months of development behind every product, and the figures printed next to the names.
Quick answers
Does Vita C TRX contain vitamin C?
It contains a vitamin C derivative, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, at 100 ppm. It does not contain pure L-ascorbic acid, and it is not built around vitamin C. The main active is tranexamic acid.
Why does it say 72% if water is also on the list?
Because the 72% is sea buckthorn fruit water, used as the base in place of purified water. Purified water still appears elsewhere on the list, so we avoid calling the formula water-free.
Can I use it with retinol?
Yes, but start by separating them: this serum in the morning and retinol at night. We do not recommend layering it with strong AHA or BHA products in one routine.
What does REGLOW mean, and how does it relate to REWIND and REFINE?
The three Solution serums each have a focus name. REGLOW is this one, for brightening and the look of dark spots and uneven tone. REWIND is the Firming Bakuchiol PDRN Serum, for firmness and elasticity. REFINE is the Jeju Yuja Succinic Balancing Serum, for soothing, the skin barrier and skin texture.
What does the "TRX" in the name mean?
It comes from tranexamic acid, the main active. Say it out loud and it sounds like tyrannosaurus, and the name came from the ingredient, not from a marketing plan. Some customers call it the dino serum.
Where to go next
- Dark Spot Solution Vita C TRX Serum — the full ingredient list, price and directions.
- Sea buckthorn fruit water and tranexamic acid — the two ingredients behind the numbers.
- Your guide to Vita C TRX — routine placement and what to pair it with.
- What a botanical-water base tells you — why a plant water can replace purified water.
- Compare the three Solution serums — choose between REGLOW, REWIND and REFINE.
